DIY

Do It Yourself

Here is how to build a very good Led panel yourself, version 2.0 date 28-8-2009

Compared to version 1, which was identical to the panel used in set-up 3, this new design gives about 50% more light. This achieved by: The base of the 20 Watt panel is an aluminum plate, 20 * 40 centimeter, 1,5 mm thick.
All Leds are Lumileds K2, of course you can change them for other brands or types if you want.
Blue is the LXK2-PB14-Q00, 2 pieces, with Carclo 10170 Wide angle reflector and lensholder, (NEW)
Red is the LXK2-PD12-R00, 8 pieces, with Carclo 10170 Wide angle reflector and lensholder, (NEW)
Optional White Led L2K2-MWC4-11-0200 (star), or LXK2-PWC4-0200 (NEW), 1 piece (to complete the spectrum and prevent delayed flowering), no reflector required.
The very powerfull White Led gives a lot of Blue light, so the Blue Leds can be paralleled or even switched off, (= bypassed), once you have switched from vegging to flowering. If you switch Off the Blue Leds, you might consider turning On 2 extra Red Leds to boost flowering.

Datasheet about the K2 Leds


A Lumileds K2 Led with a reflector and a holder

The Leds run at a constant current of 700 mA, you can either buy a current source or build it yourself. There are several types to be plugged directly into the mains available, simple and safe. For instance:

SOLAROX® 700mA, for max 11 leds, 220 Volt.

36-Watt Lightech LED Driver, for max 12 leds, 100 - 265 Volt.

If you have experience in building electronic circuits, a nice DIY version is provided by the LM3404HV switching current regulator, input is 35-45 DC Volt, 500 mA;
Complete Datasheet about LM3404
(You can use other Constant Current Sources as well, just remember 700 mA is optimal)


Schematics of the regulator


The finished Led panel, as you can see I mounted a small 12 cm fan on the side of the panel, it runs on 12 volt and uses only 1,5 watt. As you can see I mounted the fan for maximum cooling; it blows over and also under the panel. Having the fan installed lowers paneltemperature from 39 to 27 degrees Celsius and this gives a measured 10% extra light. This happens because of the higher efficiency of the Leds at lower temperatures, Led life will also increase a lot.

All Leds are mounted with thermal conductive glue, I used Loctite 315 output kit, but a much cheaper thermal conductive glue will do fine. After glueing the Led's are wired in series, remember the Led-connections are fragile! With hotmelt the Lensholders are glued to the panels and the reflectors are clicked in. At 700 mA it is impossible and unadvisable to look into the Leds.


Please don't forget to share your results with me!!



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